Overheating and Heat Strokes are Silent Killers Bella, Ryder, and Hondo after a training session

Protecting your dog from heat stroke and heat related illnesses is easy as long as you pay attention to your dog during that opening day hunt.  It may mean less shooting and socializing, but can mean life or death to your dog.

Warning signs of K9 overheating and heat related stress include excessive panting, uncoordinated movements of the back limbs, weaving back and forth on a retrieve, or in severe cases, complete collapse.  If your dog exhibits any of the last three symptoms, we recommend you stop hunting and get your dog emergency veterinary care immediately to prevent permanent damage to your dog’s brain and vital organs.

Here are some easy ways we have found to prevent heat related illnesses among Ryder, Bella, and Hondo.

  1. Park your vehicle in the shade and keep your dogs cool while they are in the kennels or in our case in the dog trailer.
  2. Use a plastic kennel that has a nice tall base which you can fill with a level of cool water which you can then kennel your dog into to lay down and cool off.  We keep two kennels with us at all times for this purpose.  If it’s extremely hot, we always add some ice to the water to help with the cooling process.  Too much ice can cause shock by cooling the dog off too quickly.
  3. Provide a fan to provide air flow to the dog which when blowing over the cool water will provide your dog with a nice cooling breeze.  Or you can use a crate fan cooling system that comes with a re-freezable core that will blow cool air on your dog for at least a 1/2 hour.
  4. Keep plenty of drinking water for your dog, and it will help to add electrolytes to their hydration regimen with either a baby electrolyte drink such as Pedialite or a specially formulated dog product, Animal Naturals K-9 GoDog which is added .
  5. With more than one dog available, make sure you rotate them about every 30 minutes to allow each dog enough time to cool down before calling on them to work again.

While nothing is sure in this world, if you keep a close eye on your dog’s panting and retrieves, you should be able to prevent heat related issues from causing problems with your hunt.  Think safety first, and you will be able to share many great memories with your companion for years to come.

VN:F [1.9.7_1111]
Rating: 0.0/10 (0 votes cast)
VN:F [1.9.7_1111]
Rating: 0 (from 0 votes)
Share

You don’t hunt deer in January the way you hunt them in October. The same should hold true for your pheasant hunting.

By Jennifer L.S. Pearsall

The pheasant, while part of the family that has evolved into fast-food nuggets, is no dumb cluck. I don’t think there’s a game bird out there that educates faster when it comes to hunting pressure. What starts out as a bird to fill limits with on the season opener will inevitably become to you what the Roadrunner was to Wile E. Coyote. That means that if you want to hunt them from beginning to end, you’re going to need a full bag of tricks.

Opening Assaults

For a lot of pheasant hunters, the season begins and ends with the opening day or week. Take, for instance, Mitchell, South Dakota, where the Cabela’s there is, literally, an explosion of blaze orange and waxed cotton in the weeks leading up to the season opener. With huge banners that read “Welcome Pheasant Hunters!” adorning the store, it’s clear the season’s a big deal.

South Dakota may be a pheasant Mecca, but it’s not the only one. All across the Midwest, this is one celebrated bird. For instance, in the small Kansas town I lived in for a few years, there are two big placards, put up at the town’s entrances weeks in advance of the opener, advertising the Rotary Club’s pancake feed for all hungry pheasant hunters—and boy, do they get a draw. And in Pennsylvania, where the state does a remarkable job of raising very savvy pheasants for release on its excellent public lands, folks line the fields in droves, waiting for legal light on opening day.

Opening days are something to live for, something to gather friends round for and assault the fields en masse. Why? It’s easy to work the No. 1 tactic for this time of year, a  kind of hunter’s dance I like to call the “pinch-and-squeeze.”

It goes something like this. You and twenty of your closest friends—who’ve duped your wives into yet another year of soup-kitchen and bird-plucking duty—head for the nearest recently harvested grain field or CRP swath (and you should never discount public lands for the opener, as pheasants on these lands haven’t seen any more pressure at this point in the season than they would in any other habitat). You’re going to “do the drop,” depositing half of you at one end of the property, while the rest of you head for the far end. You can put down all your dogs at one time, a couple if the weather’s warm and you’ll need to rotate dogs throughout the day, or you can go dogless. It matters not, other than that, with a dog, you’ll better realize the benefit of having birds retrieved by something other than yourself.

When someone can get a visual that there are two lines of hunters facing each other across the opposite ends of the chosen field, it’s time for everyone to move forward.

This is the pinch part, and if the field’s good, everyone should get some shooting in, whether in the middle of the line or the end. In fact, that’s the real benefit of this “assault” approach, because birds rising from the middle of the field and missed by center-line shooters will undoubtedly fall to others across the line as they try to make an escape. Finally, when the two lines have come nearly together at the squeeze point, the shooting should be nearly non-stop, with those on the outside of the line getting their best chances yet.

It is not unusual, during an opening day and with a good field or two, to have limits filled within a couple hours. Indeed, you may get this kind of good shooting through the entire first week, but you’ll have probably noticed that after the first day’s salute, it’s harder to get birds to rise throughout the pinch. You’ll also have seen more and more birds leaking out the sides. Like I said, pheasants learn fast.

Author’s Bio

Jennifer L.S. Pearsall is an outdoor writer, photographer, and editor, who has been a professional in the hunting and shooting industries for nearly 20 years. She began her career by selling guns in a retail establishment in Northern Virginia in the early 1990s, before being recruited by the NRA to join its editorial staff. She has long been a dedicated sporting clays competitor, and  has also dabbled in IPSC and metallic blackpowder cartridge competitions. Ms. Pearsall is a practiced and dedicated hunter, with her fair share of big-game trophies decorating her home, but her deepest passions are bird dogs and upland bird and waterfowl hunting.

Since her tenure with the NRA, Ms. Pearsall’s freelance writings and editing work have appeared in dozens of outdoors print and online publications, including Gun Dog, Wildfowl, Whitetail Journal, Petersen’s Hunting, Waterfowl & Retriever, and various publications of the National Rifle Association and Safari Club International, among others. She has also written under the pen name C. Fergus Covey as a gun test and evaluation expert for Gun Tests magazine. Currently she is authoring the blog www.HuntingTheTruth.com.

Ms. Pearsall currently resides in San Antonio, Texas, with her two dogs, an aging Lab named Noah, and a squirrel-obsessed English pointer called Highway.

VN:F [1.9.7_1111]
Rating: 10.0/10 (1 vote cast)
VN:F [1.9.7_1111]
Rating: 0 (from 0 votes)
Share
Jennifer L. S. Pearsall guest authors a great group of  articles on the art of Grouse Hunting with our favorite sporting dog breeds.

The ruffed grouse is to the forest what pheasants are to the grasslands. But unlike the flashier, bigger plains bird, you can’t bully a grouse around. The “we-got-’em-surrounded” mentality that often works with pheasants—big crowds pushing a section of real estate to pinch birds and force them to flight—won’t get you anywhere in the grouse woods. No, this is one bird that requires finesse.


In Part II of this series, I left you pointing dog aficionados with the parting words “It is okay to let my pointing dog range out of sight.” Whew! I could here y’all breathin’ fire down my neck before I hit the post button to this blog.

Now, I know what you’re thinking, because I’ve been there. You’re wondering how you’ll know where the dog is if you can’t see him. The big answer is you have to have trust in your dog. You have to know with absolute conviction that he’s out there finding birds and holding them until you get to him and not just out running willy-nilly across the countryside on a, um, wild goose chase, so to speak. But trust is an earned thing, and two tools will get you there: the electric beeper collar, or, my favorite, the traditional cow bell.

I use a beeper collar almost always when bird hunting and over most upland species, especially in more open habitat, because I can hear the electronic tone from further away and often over high winds. I always use one that functions in both a running mode and a pointing mode so I can tell, generally, what the dog’s doing. But I actually like the bell better for grouse hunting.

The bell is exacting where the beeper collar is generalized. With the beeper, I only know the dog is moving or standing still. And if he’s out of sight, I don’t know if the standing-still beep means he’s on point, taking a drink of water, or peeing on a tree. With the bell, I know all of these things and much, much more, just by the way it rings. A steady clang, for instance, tells me the dog’s working the cover methodically and thoroughly. When the clattering gets a little spastic, I know he’s hot on scent. And can I hear a tiny “tick, tick tick” as I get closer to him? That’s the clanger echoing his breathing when he’s solid on point—and I can hear this even when I can’t see him, which allows me to get ready to shoot when I walk up on the point. Too, I hear the difference between a dog that’s begun to creep on his point and one that takes a step to balance his body. I also can tell if he’s lost control and charges the flush—and it doesn’t take a practiced ear to figure that out.

I actually like to use a bell in conjunction with an electric collar that has the tone turned off but is activated for stimulation, because you can make corrections to the dog without having him in your sight. The bell tells you he’s creeping? Give him a little nick to put him back on hold. Hear him charge a flush after being silent on point? Give a jolt to pull him off the pursuit. (All of this, of course, assuming your dog is at least mostly trained and understands this type of correction. You wouldn’t want to do this to a young dog just beginning his field education and have him start to blink birds, but that’s a subject for a whole separate article.)

The point of the bell is that I can let the dog do the work of finding birds instead of me. I take him off the truck, set him loose, listen for the bell, and walk toward it, either leisurely in the general direction if the dog is working steadily, or directly toward the last place I heard it ringing if the bell stops. I work less, while the dog finds more birds. Two birds in the hand … .

Flushers Count, Too!

Pointing dogs may have cornered the market, but flushing dogs certainly shouldn’t be ignored as useful grouse-hunting partners. Some basics.

Naturally, flushing dogs should perform in a manner opposite that of the pointing breeds. It’s absolutely necessary that they hunt close to the gun, as there’s not an ounce of sense in having a dog that flushes grouse 50 yards out. Finished flushing dogs should work to the front of the gun, within gun range, in a zig-zag pattern that criss-crosses the ground your feet won’t touch. They should show obvious excitement when hot on scent, so that you may move closer to them. They should sit on the flush to avoid possible injury during shots on low-flying birds (just as for pointing dogs), and they should retrieve to hand upon command. Of course, you can train your pointing breeds to do this last job as well, but it’s certainly more expected in a complete flushing dog package.

I particularly like to switch exclusively to flushing dogs when snow flies and the forests are skeletons of wood waiting to bear leaves again. Pheasants get all the credit for being “educated” by the time hunting seasons reach their late stages, but grouse get the message, too. Between the sparse cover provided during winter days, and after being shot at for the couple preceding months, grouse are less likely to hold for a pointing dog. Regardless the type of dog used, though, tighten up your chokes and be prepared for longer shots.

Author’s Bio

Jennifer L.S. Pearsall is an outdoor writer, photographer, and editor, who has been a professional in the hunting and shooting industries for nearly 20 years. She began her career by selling guns in a retail establishment in Northern Virginia in the early 1990s, before being recruited by the NRA to join its editorial staff. She has long been a dedicated sporting clays competitor, and  has also dabbled in IPSC and metallic blackpowder cartridge competitions. Ms. Pearsall is a practiced and dedicated hunter, with her fair share of big-game trophies decorating her home, but her deepest passions are bird dogs and upland bird and waterfowl hunting.

Since her tenure with the NRA, Ms. Pearsall’s freelance writings and editing work have appeared in dozens of outdoors print and online publications, including Gun Dog, Wildfowl, Whitetail Journal, Petersen’s Hunting, Waterfowl & Retriever, and various publications of the National Rifle Association and Safari Club International, among others. She has also written under the pen name C. Fergus Covey as a gun test and evaluation expert for Gun Tests magazine. Currently she is authoring the blog www.HuntingTheTruth.com.

Ms. Pearsall currently resides in San Antonio, Texas, with her two dogs, an aging Lab named Noah, and a squirrel-obsessed English pointer called Highway.

VN:F [1.9.7_1111]
Rating: 0.0/10 (0 votes cast)
VN:F [1.9.7_1111]
Rating: 0 (from 0 votes)
Share

Marley Sporting Dog Supplies is proudly powered by WordPress and the Theme Adventure by Eric Schwarz
Entries (RSS) and Comments (RSS).

Marley Sporting Dog Supplies

Everything for your Favorite Sporting Dog!