Overheating and Heat Strokes are Silent Killers Bella, Ryder, and Hondo after a training session

Protecting your dog from heat stroke and heat related illnesses is easy as long as you pay attention to your dog during that opening day hunt.  It may mean less shooting and socializing, but can mean life or death to your dog.

Warning signs of K9 overheating and heat related stress include excessive panting, uncoordinated movements of the back limbs, weaving back and forth on a retrieve, or in severe cases, complete collapse.  If your dog exhibits any of the last three symptoms, we recommend you stop hunting and get your dog emergency veterinary care immediately to prevent permanent damage to your dog’s brain and vital organs.

Here are some easy ways we have found to prevent heat related illnesses among Ryder, Bella, and Hondo.

  1. Park your vehicle in the shade and keep your dogs cool while they are in the kennels or in our case in the dog trailer.
  2. Use a plastic kennel that has a nice tall base which you can fill with a level of cool water which you can then kennel your dog into to lay down and cool off.  We keep two kennels with us at all times for this purpose.  If it’s extremely hot, we always add some ice to the water to help with the cooling process.  Too much ice can cause shock by cooling the dog off too quickly.
  3. Provide a fan to provide air flow to the dog which when blowing over the cool water will provide your dog with a nice cooling breeze.  Or you can use a crate fan cooling system that comes with a re-freezable core that will blow cool air on your dog for at least a 1/2 hour.
  4. Keep plenty of drinking water for your dog, and it will help to add electrolytes to their hydration regimen with either a baby electrolyte drink such as Pedialite or a specially formulated dog product, Animal Naturals K-9 GoDog which is added .
  5. With more than one dog available, make sure you rotate them about every 30 minutes to allow each dog enough time to cool down before calling on them to work again.

While nothing is sure in this world, if you keep a close eye on your dog’s panting and retrieves, you should be able to prevent heat related issues from causing problems with your hunt.  Think safety first, and you will be able to share many great memories with your companion for years to come.

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Dr. Jim Dobies is the owner of South Point Pet Hospital in Belmont, NC, and over the last five years in practice has helped Ryder, Bella, and Hondo through numerous injuries and illnesses as they compete and hunt throughout the country.  I have requested that he write an article on Exercise Induced Collapse (EIC) because it was found predominantly in the genetics of field bred Labrador Retrievers.

Exercise-Induced Collapse

James C. Dobies, DVM

Exercise-induced collapse (EIC) is the most common cause of collapse in young, healthy Labrador Retrievers.  It is most commonly associated with field-trial dogs, but has been identified in other Labradors, Chesapeake Bay and Curly-Coated Retrievers, and Boykin Spaniels.  Affected dogs are generally young (5 months to 3 years of age), extremely fit, and often have an excitable temperament.

EIC usually occurs after 5 to 20 minutes of strenuous exercise often accompanied by extreme excitement.  The first sign may be a rocking or forced gait.  The rear limbs become weak and wobbly.  Sometimes this proceeds to an incoordinated gait.  In severe episodes, the front limbs can become affected as well and the dogs may exhibit a complete inability to move.  Some dogs with EIC suffer a loss of balance and fall over.  Most dogs are conscious and alert during the episodes, but some will appear disoriented.  Symptoms often worsen for up to 5 minutes even after exercise has ended.

It’s important for owners and handlers to immediately rest any dog showing signs of EIC because a few deaths have been reported.  However, most dogs fully recover within 5 to 25 minutes with no permanent loss of function.  The first time a dog collapses, it should be examined immediately by a veterinarian with knowledge of EIC to confirm the diagnosis.  A dog previously diagnosed with EIC that does not recover from an episode of collapse within 30 minutes should be examined and treated by a veterinarian.  Body temperature is frequently elevated in cases of EIC but it is no more severe than the elevated temperatures of unaffected dogs following exertion.  It’s best to provide the same cooling therapies to all post-exercise dogs: access to shade or air conditioning; access to plenty of drinking water; wetting of the ears, paw pads, and coat with cool water; and allowing dogs to pant freely to self-regulate elevated body temperatures.

A dog with EIC should avoid the activities that bring on an episode.  Some dogs have been successfully treated for EIC with phenobarbital, but this medication should only be prescribed and administered at the direction of licensed veterinarian.  EIC is a hereditary condition and there is a DNA test to detect the EIC gene.  Testing can be performed on blood, cheek swabs, dewclaws, and semen.  The results are useful for owners in making decisions about the activities their dog can and cannot participate in, for breeders to assist in breeding decisions, and for veterinarians trying to diagnose dogs with potential neurological, neuromuscular or metabolic disorders.

References:

The website for the University of Minnesota Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory: (http://www.vdl.umn.edu/ourservices/canineneuromuscular/home.html)

Harari, J.  Exercise-induced collapse in Labrador retrievers: A comparison with unaffected dogs.  Dvm360 August 1, 2009.

Hoskins, JD.  Exercise-induced collapse in Labrador Retrievers.  Dvm360 October 1, 2008.

Patterson, EE, Minor, KM, et al.  A canine DNM1 mutation is highly associated with the syndrome of exercise-induced collapse.  Nat Genet October 2008; 40 (10): 1235-9.

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Jennifer L. S. Pearsall guest authors a great group of  articles on the art of Grouse Hunting with our favorite sporting dog breeds.

The ruffed grouse is to the forest what pheasants are to the grasslands. But unlike the flashier, bigger plains bird, you can’t bully a grouse around. The “we-got-’em-surrounded” mentality that often works with pheasants—big crowds pushing a section of real estate to pinch birds and force them to flight—won’t get you anywhere in the grouse woods. No, this is one bird that requires finesse.


In Part II of this series, I left you pointing dog aficionados with the parting words “It is okay to let my pointing dog range out of sight.” Whew! I could here y’all breathin’ fire down my neck before I hit the post button to this blog.

Now, I know what you’re thinking, because I’ve been there. You’re wondering how you’ll know where the dog is if you can’t see him. The big answer is you have to have trust in your dog. You have to know with absolute conviction that he’s out there finding birds and holding them until you get to him and not just out running willy-nilly across the countryside on a, um, wild goose chase, so to speak. But trust is an earned thing, and two tools will get you there: the electric beeper collar, or, my favorite, the traditional cow bell.

I use a beeper collar almost always when bird hunting and over most upland species, especially in more open habitat, because I can hear the electronic tone from further away and often over high winds. I always use one that functions in both a running mode and a pointing mode so I can tell, generally, what the dog’s doing. But I actually like the bell better for grouse hunting.

The bell is exacting where the beeper collar is generalized. With the beeper, I only know the dog is moving or standing still. And if he’s out of sight, I don’t know if the standing-still beep means he’s on point, taking a drink of water, or peeing on a tree. With the bell, I know all of these things and much, much more, just by the way it rings. A steady clang, for instance, tells me the dog’s working the cover methodically and thoroughly. When the clattering gets a little spastic, I know he’s hot on scent. And can I hear a tiny “tick, tick tick” as I get closer to him? That’s the clanger echoing his breathing when he’s solid on point—and I can hear this even when I can’t see him, which allows me to get ready to shoot when I walk up on the point. Too, I hear the difference between a dog that’s begun to creep on his point and one that takes a step to balance his body. I also can tell if he’s lost control and charges the flush—and it doesn’t take a practiced ear to figure that out.

I actually like to use a bell in conjunction with an electric collar that has the tone turned off but is activated for stimulation, because you can make corrections to the dog without having him in your sight. The bell tells you he’s creeping? Give him a little nick to put him back on hold. Hear him charge a flush after being silent on point? Give a jolt to pull him off the pursuit. (All of this, of course, assuming your dog is at least mostly trained and understands this type of correction. You wouldn’t want to do this to a young dog just beginning his field education and have him start to blink birds, but that’s a subject for a whole separate article.)

The point of the bell is that I can let the dog do the work of finding birds instead of me. I take him off the truck, set him loose, listen for the bell, and walk toward it, either leisurely in the general direction if the dog is working steadily, or directly toward the last place I heard it ringing if the bell stops. I work less, while the dog finds more birds. Two birds in the hand … .

Flushers Count, Too!

Pointing dogs may have cornered the market, but flushing dogs certainly shouldn’t be ignored as useful grouse-hunting partners. Some basics.

Naturally, flushing dogs should perform in a manner opposite that of the pointing breeds. It’s absolutely necessary that they hunt close to the gun, as there’s not an ounce of sense in having a dog that flushes grouse 50 yards out. Finished flushing dogs should work to the front of the gun, within gun range, in a zig-zag pattern that criss-crosses the ground your feet won’t touch. They should show obvious excitement when hot on scent, so that you may move closer to them. They should sit on the flush to avoid possible injury during shots on low-flying birds (just as for pointing dogs), and they should retrieve to hand upon command. Of course, you can train your pointing breeds to do this last job as well, but it’s certainly more expected in a complete flushing dog package.

I particularly like to switch exclusively to flushing dogs when snow flies and the forests are skeletons of wood waiting to bear leaves again. Pheasants get all the credit for being “educated” by the time hunting seasons reach their late stages, but grouse get the message, too. Between the sparse cover provided during winter days, and after being shot at for the couple preceding months, grouse are less likely to hold for a pointing dog. Regardless the type of dog used, though, tighten up your chokes and be prepared for longer shots.

Author’s Bio

Jennifer L.S. Pearsall is an outdoor writer, photographer, and editor, who has been a professional in the hunting and shooting industries for nearly 20 years. She began her career by selling guns in a retail establishment in Northern Virginia in the early 1990s, before being recruited by the NRA to join its editorial staff. She has long been a dedicated sporting clays competitor, and  has also dabbled in IPSC and metallic blackpowder cartridge competitions. Ms. Pearsall is a practiced and dedicated hunter, with her fair share of big-game trophies decorating her home, but her deepest passions are bird dogs and upland bird and waterfowl hunting.

Since her tenure with the NRA, Ms. Pearsall’s freelance writings and editing work have appeared in dozens of outdoors print and online publications, including Gun Dog, Wildfowl, Whitetail Journal, Petersen’s Hunting, Waterfowl & Retriever, and various publications of the National Rifle Association and Safari Club International, among others. She has also written under the pen name C. Fergus Covey as a gun test and evaluation expert for Gun Tests magazine. Currently she is authoring the blog www.HuntingTheTruth.com.

Ms. Pearsall currently resides in San Antonio, Texas, with her two dogs, an aging Lab named Noah, and a squirrel-obsessed English pointer called Highway.

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