Jennifer L. S. Pearsall guest authors a great group of  articles on the art of Grouse Hunting with our favorite sporting dog breeds.

The ruffed grouse is to the forest what pheasants are to the grasslands. But unlike the flashier, bigger plains bird, you can’t bully a grouse around. The “we-got-’em-surrounded” mentality that often works with pheasants—big crowds pushing a section of real estate to pinch birds and force them to flight—won’t get you anywhere in the grouse woods. No, this is one bird that requires finesse.


In Part II of this series, I left you pointing dog aficionados with the parting words “It is okay to let my pointing dog range out of sight.” Whew! I could here y’all breathin’ fire down my neck before I hit the post button to this blog.

Now, I know what you’re thinking, because I’ve been there. You’re wondering how you’ll know where the dog is if you can’t see him. The big answer is you have to have trust in your dog. You have to know with absolute conviction that he’s out there finding birds and holding them until you get to him and not just out running willy-nilly across the countryside on a, um, wild goose chase, so to speak. But trust is an earned thing, and two tools will get you there: the electric beeper collar, or, my favorite, the traditional cow bell.

I use a beeper collar almost always when bird hunting and over most upland species, especially in more open habitat, because I can hear the electronic tone from further away and often over high winds. I always use one that functions in both a running mode and a pointing mode so I can tell, generally, what the dog’s doing. But I actually like the bell better for grouse hunting.

The bell is exacting where the beeper collar is generalized. With the beeper, I only know the dog is moving or standing still. And if he’s out of sight, I don’t know if the standing-still beep means he’s on point, taking a drink of water, or peeing on a tree. With the bell, I know all of these things and much, much more, just by the way it rings. A steady clang, for instance, tells me the dog’s working the cover methodically and thoroughly. When the clattering gets a little spastic, I know he’s hot on scent. And can I hear a tiny “tick, tick tick” as I get closer to him? That’s the clanger echoing his breathing when he’s solid on point—and I can hear this even when I can’t see him, which allows me to get ready to shoot when I walk up on the point. Too, I hear the difference between a dog that’s begun to creep on his point and one that takes a step to balance his body. I also can tell if he’s lost control and charges the flush—and it doesn’t take a practiced ear to figure that out.

I actually like to use a bell in conjunction with an electric collar that has the tone turned off but is activated for stimulation, because you can make corrections to the dog without having him in your sight. The bell tells you he’s creeping? Give him a little nick to put him back on hold. Hear him charge a flush after being silent on point? Give a jolt to pull him off the pursuit. (All of this, of course, assuming your dog is at least mostly trained and understands this type of correction. You wouldn’t want to do this to a young dog just beginning his field education and have him start to blink birds, but that’s a subject for a whole separate article.)

The point of the bell is that I can let the dog do the work of finding birds instead of me. I take him off the truck, set him loose, listen for the bell, and walk toward it, either leisurely in the general direction if the dog is working steadily, or directly toward the last place I heard it ringing if the bell stops. I work less, while the dog finds more birds. Two birds in the hand … .

Flushers Count, Too!

Pointing dogs may have cornered the market, but flushing dogs certainly shouldn’t be ignored as useful grouse-hunting partners. Some basics.

Naturally, flushing dogs should perform in a manner opposite that of the pointing breeds. It’s absolutely necessary that they hunt close to the gun, as there’s not an ounce of sense in having a dog that flushes grouse 50 yards out. Finished flushing dogs should work to the front of the gun, within gun range, in a zig-zag pattern that criss-crosses the ground your feet won’t touch. They should show obvious excitement when hot on scent, so that you may move closer to them. They should sit on the flush to avoid possible injury during shots on low-flying birds (just as for pointing dogs), and they should retrieve to hand upon command. Of course, you can train your pointing breeds to do this last job as well, but it’s certainly more expected in a complete flushing dog package.

I particularly like to switch exclusively to flushing dogs when snow flies and the forests are skeletons of wood waiting to bear leaves again. Pheasants get all the credit for being “educated” by the time hunting seasons reach their late stages, but grouse get the message, too. Between the sparse cover provided during winter days, and after being shot at for the couple preceding months, grouse are less likely to hold for a pointing dog. Regardless the type of dog used, though, tighten up your chokes and be prepared for longer shots.

Author’s Bio

Jennifer L.S. Pearsall is an outdoor writer, photographer, and editor, who has been a professional in the hunting and shooting industries for nearly 20 years. She began her career by selling guns in a retail establishment in Northern Virginia in the early 1990s, before being recruited by the NRA to join its editorial staff. She has long been a dedicated sporting clays competitor, and  has also dabbled in IPSC and metallic blackpowder cartridge competitions. Ms. Pearsall is a practiced and dedicated hunter, with her fair share of big-game trophies decorating her home, but her deepest passions are bird dogs and upland bird and waterfowl hunting.

Since her tenure with the NRA, Ms. Pearsall’s freelance writings and editing work have appeared in dozens of outdoors print and online publications, including Gun Dog, Wildfowl, Whitetail Journal, Petersen’s Hunting, Waterfowl & Retriever, and various publications of the National Rifle Association and Safari Club International, among others. She has also written under the pen name C. Fergus Covey as a gun test and evaluation expert for Gun Tests magazine. Currently she is authoring the blog www.HuntingTheTruth.com.

Ms. Pearsall currently resides in San Antonio, Texas, with her two dogs, an aging Lab named Noah, and a squirrel-obsessed English pointer called Highway.

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Hallmark Dummy Launcher – A Must Have Retriever Training Tool

Hallmark Dummy Launcher with Duck

The Hallmark Dummy Launcher is a must have tool in your retriever training bag of tricks. It gives you the sound of the shot and the fall of the bird. Pups learn at an early age to focus not only on the flight of the dummy but the sound of the shot. This training tool, incorporated with proper noise or sound conditioning, will give your pup an advantage as he advances along the path to non-slip retriever status.

This is the most durable and dependable launcher on the market. The quality steel construction and a non-slip handle make it easy to use in all weather conditions. It’s never failed me once over 5 years of use and abuse in the field and requires minimal maintenance. Laura Haines, 2nd generation owner of Hallmark Dog Supplies, has requested a picture of my launcher because it may own the record for durability.

Hallmark Green Power Loads

Hallmark .22 Cal
Green Power Loads

Hallmark Yellow Power Loads

Hallmark .22 Cal
Yellow Power Loads

Hallmark Red Power Loads

Hallmark .22 Cal
Red Power Loads

Different launch distances from the Hallmark dummy launcher allow cover, water, or other obstacles to come into play which will build boldness in a pup and confidence in a finished retriever. You get multiple launch distances by using different .22 cal power loads, Green (Up to 25 Yards), Yellow (Up to 50 Yards), or Red (Up to 75 Yards).

Hallmark Launcher Stock

Hallmark Launcher Stock


Team Marley Sporting Dog Supplies dogs, Ryder, Bella, and Hondo, have each grown up chasing Hallmark launcher dummies which come in different sizes and shapes. From realistic looking ducks by Hallmark and Dokken Dead Fowl Trainers to the standard canvas and PVC, plastic, rubber launcher dummies. Marley Sporting Dog Supplies offers every conceivable shape and size of launcher dummy to fit any retriever training need.  Add a launcher stock for reduced recoil making it easier to complete your multiple dog retriever training sessions.

Hallmark Launcher Duck

Hallmark Duck Launcher Dummy

Dokken Bluewing Teal Dummy Launcher

Dokken Dead Fowl Blue Wing Teal
Launcher Dummy

Hallmark White Canvas Launcher Dummy

Hallmark White Canvas
Launcher Dummy

Hallmark White Launcher Dummy with Streamers

Hallmark White Canvas
Launcher Dummy with Streamers

Hallmark PVC Launcher Dummy

Hallmark PVC Launcher Dummy


Marley Sporting Dog Supplies
carries premium sporting dog supply brands which include; Hallmark Dog Supplies, Avery Sporting Dog Products, Mendota Dog Products, SportDog Brand Training Collars, Mud River Products, and Dokken Dead Fowl Trainers.  Our retriever training products include dummy launchers, starter pistols, dog travel and kennel accessories, electronic collars, training dummies, and containment systems.  Our customer service is second to none and we proudly use the Ratepoint Business Reputation service so that you as a customer receives an unbiased opinion from not only our loyal customers, but our one-time customers as well. Good luck in the fields and happy training with the Hallmark Dummy Launcher.

Stan Cromlish

Owner & Trainer of Ryder – 2007 NUCS National Champion and 2008 Bird Dog Challenge Runner Up Doubles World Champion
Owner & Trainer of Bella – 2007 Quail Unlimited Flushing Dog of the Year
Owner & Trainer of Hondo – Marley Dog of the Future

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Jennifer L. S. Pearsall guest authors a great group of  articles on the art of Grouse Hunting with our favorite sporting dog breeds.

The ruffed grouse is to the forest what pheasants are to the grasslands. But unlike the flashier, bigger plains bird, you can’t bully a grouse around. The “we-got-’em-surrounded” mentality that often works with pheasants—big crowds pushing a section of real estate to pinch birds and force them to flight—won’t get you anywhere in the grouse woods. No, this is one bird that requires finesse.


As I explained in the first installment of “Grouse—The Stealth Approach,” my group of friends and I didn’t have much opportunity to get together. We also didn’t have a lot of time to get our dogs off the trucks and really hunting, so between the “We-gottem-surrounded!” approach we had and the refusal of any one of us—even me, guilty as charged—to rotate our dogs throughout the day, there were far too many of hunters and canines working any given piece of that wonderful grouse real estate at any one time. I concluded “Part I” by providing some hard-learned advice on hunting by yourself or with just one partner. The beauty to that method is that a hunter doesn’t even need a dog. But I don’t know a died-in-the-wool grouse hunter who would set forth without one, so that’s what we’re going to talk about now.

Man’s Best Friend

Grouse hunting is the domain of pointing dogs. Setters, pointers, short-hairs, and Brittanies rule the roost here, though having one of those and a flushing dog like a Lab or a cocker or springer along certainly makes a nice day out, too. Most hunters know the key to successful upland hunting with dogs is good dog training, but, in reality, most amateur handlers rarely know what that fully encompasses. My West Virginia grouse-hunting friends were good examples of this.

Ours were hunts that seemed to resemble track events. The group’s collective approach was to push as much countryside as it could as fast as it could. I don’t know whether these guys had been taught that way or if, over their years pursuing grouse, had come to believe it was necessary, but we blistered the countryside. Even in years I was in relatively good shape, I often huffed and puffed to keep up with the group of brawny men.

Aside from their driving belief that it was miles covered that put birds in the bag, I now know the bigger reason we marched so hard was because none of our dogs—not even mine, at the time—were finished dogs. For a pointing dog to be truly finished, or fully trained, he needs to hold point until the handler orders otherwise. That means for five seconds or five minutes or five hours—whatever it takes. A finished pointing dog does not crowd the bird, does not creep on his point, and never flushes the bird. Further, he should remain staunch when the bird flushes and the gun is fired, or, as is commonly known, is “steady to wing and shot.”

Part of this philosophy is a safety issue. If the dog is steady to wing and shot, you not only know where he is, but he will not be leaping into the pellet string if you fire at a low-flying bird.

Another factor is that those that aren’t steady to the wing or flush, usually give chase to the bird once it begins to fly off—and that can negate circling around and relocating that grouse again for a second-shot chance. Grouse don’t usually fly far after flushing. If you move quietly along the flight path, you can often relocate a once-flushed bird some 30 to, say, 100 yards from where he first rose. But if your pointing dog won’t remain steady to the flush, he’s probably full of other bad habits like creeping and crowding, and probably flushing more birds than you can imagine.

So what you have with a pointing dog that isn’t finished is a dog you can’t trust out of your sight. Back on those West Virginia hunts, we rushed to get to our dogs so we could flush the birds before the dogs took matters into their own paws. It didn’t mean our dogs didn’t point, it didn’t mean that they couldn’t find birds, it was just an issue of them not being completely steady.

Of course, this meant that we kept our dogs at pretty close range. Lots of amateur handlers never let their pointing dogs range out of sight for exactly the reason I just discussed: they can’t trust their dogs. But are you really finding more birds with a dog you keep under your thumb? Maybe one or two, but really, if you’re going to hunt with a close-working pointing dog on a bird that holds as well as the ruffed grouse, you’d probably kick up just as many without him. The “point” of a pointing dog is to find birds you the hunter are not finding. And for that to happen, you need to let him range. The more ground he’s covering, the more birds he’s finding. It doesn’t mean you don’t want him to close it down a bit in really thick cover, but repeat after me: It is okay to let my pointing dog range out of my sight. Not convinced? Stay tuned for the final installment in this series!

Author’s Bio

Jennifer L.S. Pearsall is an outdoor writer, photographer, and editor, who has been a professional in the hunting and shooting industries for nearly 20 years. She began her career by selling guns in a retail establishment in Northern Virginia in the early 1990s, before being recruited by the NRA to join its editorial staff. She has long been a dedicated sporting clays competitor, and  has also dabbled in IPSC and metallic blackpowder cartridge competitions. Ms. Pearsall is a practiced and dedicated hunter, with her fair share of big-game trophies decorating her home, but her deepest passions are bird dogs and upland bird and waterfowl hunting.

Since her tenure with the NRA, Ms. Pearsall’s freelance writings and editing work have appeared in dozens of outdoors print and online publications, including Gun Dog, Wildfowl, Whitetail Journal, Petersen’s Hunting, Waterfowl & Retriever, and various publications of the National Rifle Association and Safari Club International, among others. She has also written under the pen name C. Fergus Covey as a gun test and evaluation expert for Gun Tests magazine. Currently she is authoring the blog www.HuntingTheTruth.com.

Ms. Pearsall currently resides in San Antonio, Texas, with her two dogs, an aging Lab named Noah, and a squirrel-obsessed English pointer called Highway.

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