Dr. Jim Dobies is the owner of South Point Pet Hospital in Belmont, NC, and over the last five years in practice has helped Ryder, Bella, and Hondo through numerous injuries and illnesses as they compete and hunt throughout the country.  I have requested that he write an article on Exercise Induced Collapse (EIC) because it was found predominantly in the genetics of field bred Labrador Retrievers.

Exercise-Induced Collapse

James C. Dobies, DVM

Exercise-induced collapse (EIC) is the most common cause of collapse in young, healthy Labrador Retrievers.  It is most commonly associated with field-trial dogs, but has been identified in other Labradors, Chesapeake Bay and Curly-Coated Retrievers, and Boykin Spaniels.  Affected dogs are generally young (5 months to 3 years of age), extremely fit, and often have an excitable temperament.

EIC usually occurs after 5 to 20 minutes of strenuous exercise often accompanied by extreme excitement.  The first sign may be a rocking or forced gait.  The rear limbs become weak and wobbly.  Sometimes this proceeds to an incoordinated gait.  In severe episodes, the front limbs can become affected as well and the dogs may exhibit a complete inability to move.  Some dogs with EIC suffer a loss of balance and fall over.  Most dogs are conscious and alert during the episodes, but some will appear disoriented.  Symptoms often worsen for up to 5 minutes even after exercise has ended.

It’s important for owners and handlers to immediately rest any dog showing signs of EIC because a few deaths have been reported.  However, most dogs fully recover within 5 to 25 minutes with no permanent loss of function.  The first time a dog collapses, it should be examined immediately by a veterinarian with knowledge of EIC to confirm the diagnosis.  A dog previously diagnosed with EIC that does not recover from an episode of collapse within 30 minutes should be examined and treated by a veterinarian.  Body temperature is frequently elevated in cases of EIC but it is no more severe than the elevated temperatures of unaffected dogs following exertion.  It’s best to provide the same cooling therapies to all post-exercise dogs: access to shade or air conditioning; access to plenty of drinking water; wetting of the ears, paw pads, and coat with cool water; and allowing dogs to pant freely to self-regulate elevated body temperatures.

A dog with EIC should avoid the activities that bring on an episode.  Some dogs have been successfully treated for EIC with phenobarbital, but this medication should only be prescribed and administered at the direction of licensed veterinarian.  EIC is a hereditary condition and there is a DNA test to detect the EIC gene.  Testing can be performed on blood, cheek swabs, dewclaws, and semen.  The results are useful for owners in making decisions about the activities their dog can and cannot participate in, for breeders to assist in breeding decisions, and for veterinarians trying to diagnose dogs with potential neurological, neuromuscular or metabolic disorders.

References:

The website for the University of Minnesota Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory: (http://www.vdl.umn.edu/ourservices/canineneuromuscular/home.html)

Harari, J.  Exercise-induced collapse in Labrador retrievers: A comparison with unaffected dogs.  Dvm360 August 1, 2009.

Hoskins, JD.  Exercise-induced collapse in Labrador Retrievers.  Dvm360 October 1, 2008.

Patterson, EE, Minor, KM, et al.  A canine DNM1 mutation is highly associated with the syndrome of exercise-induced collapse.  Nat Genet October 2008; 40 (10): 1235-9.

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Spring is the time when we are greeted by new puppies, and we need to make sure that we have the right equipment to make the transition from mama to your home.

Pups need all the right stuff to grow up right

In this article we will discuss the equipment you should have for your new puppy, and we highly recommend that you check out the series of articles written by Jennifer LS Pearsall with George Hickox on starting your new puppy out right.  They are the best information on making sure you start and teach your puppy right from the start.  The first puppy article in this series is titled Puppies and Imprinting: Fourteen Crucial Weeks and will help you give your pup a good start.  So what equipment do you need to help welcome and start your puppy correctly?

Taking information from Tom Dokken’s Retriever Training our equipment list will give you exactly what you need during this crucial fourteen week period.

When the pup arrives you need the following:

Wire Crate with a divider that is  correctly sized to meet the needs of your puppy as he grows to adulthood.  In this way, you will only have to buy one indoor kennel for your pup.  The way to purchase this crate is to as close as possible determine the maximum size that your pup will be at adulthood.  With the divider you will be able to make the crate the correct size for your pup’s initial crate and house training.

Deluxe Crate will give your pup room for growth

Since puppies are by nature chewers because of their new teeth, we recommend that you have a supply of chew toys for them while they reside in their puppy condo.  We do not recommend purchasing a mat for the bottom of your new puppy’s crate but use carpet or towels to line the bottom of the kennel because of the chewing habits of pups.

Food and Water Bowls should be made from stainless steel because of the ease of cleanup and because it isn’t subject to be chewed on as plastic bowls can be. Bacteria and other possibly deadly viruses can be cleaned from stainless steel using a mixture of bleach and water, just make sure that you have rinsed your bowls thoroughly after using this cleaning method.

Stainless Steel Food and Water Bowls Are Safer for your Pup

A puppy leash and collar is recommended for as soon as your pup comes home.  While color and style are of personal preference, the only recommendation that we have is that you purchase one with a metal belt buckle type instead of the plastic snap together buckle.  With the size and strength of a sporting dog, they can easily in a moment of panic or exuberance jerk hard enough to allow the snap type buckle to fail and come apart.  This can turn into a dangerous situation for you and your pup. Use a short 1/4″ check cord with snap to allow your pup to learn restraint by letting him drag it around any time he is out of his kennel.  You can get this type check cord at your local home improvement store for around $10.00. Your pup will drag this cord around and will hang it on everything from furniture to feet, and he will struggle then relax (an early learning opportunity to turn pressure off) but won’t associate any of this with you which will make training easier once it becomes more structured.

Once your pup starts school, which is at about 12 – 16 weeks old, you will needCheck Cords and Command Collars are like Remote Control for your  Dog to add either a 30′ Check Cord or a 50′ Check Cord with a properly sized “choke” or command collar to work on basic obedience and other skills that your pup will be learning.

Proper socialization and noise/sound conditioning will insure that your pup will grow up fearing nothing in his new world.  Even with all the right equipment you will need to make sure that you give your pup every chance to learn and grow.   Our next article will focus on the equipment you will need as your puppy starts his formal training and how this fits within his physical and mental growth.  Feel free to contact us at info@marleydogsupplies.com with any questions about proper equipment and training tools related to your specific breed.

Exuberant and Well-Socialized Pups Grow Up to Be Great Hunting Companions with the Right Training and Support

Marley Sporting Dog Supplies
http://www.marleydogsupplies.com

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Jennifer L. S. Pearsall guest authors a great group of  articles on the art of Grouse Hunting with our favorite sporting dog breeds.

The ruffed grouse is to the forest what pheasants are to the grasslands. But unlike the flashier, bigger plains bird, you can’t bully a grouse around. The “we-got-’em-surrounded” mentality that often works with pheasants—big crowds pushing a section of real estate to pinch birds and force them to flight—won’t get you anywhere in the grouse woods. No, this is one bird that requires finesse.


In Part II of this series, I left you pointing dog aficionados with the parting words “It is okay to let my pointing dog range out of sight.” Whew! I could here y’all breathin’ fire down my neck before I hit the post button to this blog.

Now, I know what you’re thinking, because I’ve been there. You’re wondering how you’ll know where the dog is if you can’t see him. The big answer is you have to have trust in your dog. You have to know with absolute conviction that he’s out there finding birds and holding them until you get to him and not just out running willy-nilly across the countryside on a, um, wild goose chase, so to speak. But trust is an earned thing, and two tools will get you there: the electric beeper collar, or, my favorite, the traditional cow bell.

I use a beeper collar almost always when bird hunting and over most upland species, especially in more open habitat, because I can hear the electronic tone from further away and often over high winds. I always use one that functions in both a running mode and a pointing mode so I can tell, generally, what the dog’s doing. But I actually like the bell better for grouse hunting.

The bell is exacting where the beeper collar is generalized. With the beeper, I only know the dog is moving or standing still. And if he’s out of sight, I don’t know if the standing-still beep means he’s on point, taking a drink of water, or peeing on a tree. With the bell, I know all of these things and much, much more, just by the way it rings. A steady clang, for instance, tells me the dog’s working the cover methodically and thoroughly. When the clattering gets a little spastic, I know he’s hot on scent. And can I hear a tiny “tick, tick tick” as I get closer to him? That’s the clanger echoing his breathing when he’s solid on point—and I can hear this even when I can’t see him, which allows me to get ready to shoot when I walk up on the point. Too, I hear the difference between a dog that’s begun to creep on his point and one that takes a step to balance his body. I also can tell if he’s lost control and charges the flush—and it doesn’t take a practiced ear to figure that out.

I actually like to use a bell in conjunction with an electric collar that has the tone turned off but is activated for stimulation, because you can make corrections to the dog without having him in your sight. The bell tells you he’s creeping? Give him a little nick to put him back on hold. Hear him charge a flush after being silent on point? Give a jolt to pull him off the pursuit. (All of this, of course, assuming your dog is at least mostly trained and understands this type of correction. You wouldn’t want to do this to a young dog just beginning his field education and have him start to blink birds, but that’s a subject for a whole separate article.)

The point of the bell is that I can let the dog do the work of finding birds instead of me. I take him off the truck, set him loose, listen for the bell, and walk toward it, either leisurely in the general direction if the dog is working steadily, or directly toward the last place I heard it ringing if the bell stops. I work less, while the dog finds more birds. Two birds in the hand … .

Flushers Count, Too!

Pointing dogs may have cornered the market, but flushing dogs certainly shouldn’t be ignored as useful grouse-hunting partners. Some basics.

Naturally, flushing dogs should perform in a manner opposite that of the pointing breeds. It’s absolutely necessary that they hunt close to the gun, as there’s not an ounce of sense in having a dog that flushes grouse 50 yards out. Finished flushing dogs should work to the front of the gun, within gun range, in a zig-zag pattern that criss-crosses the ground your feet won’t touch. They should show obvious excitement when hot on scent, so that you may move closer to them. They should sit on the flush to avoid possible injury during shots on low-flying birds (just as for pointing dogs), and they should retrieve to hand upon command. Of course, you can train your pointing breeds to do this last job as well, but it’s certainly more expected in a complete flushing dog package.

I particularly like to switch exclusively to flushing dogs when snow flies and the forests are skeletons of wood waiting to bear leaves again. Pheasants get all the credit for being “educated” by the time hunting seasons reach their late stages, but grouse get the message, too. Between the sparse cover provided during winter days, and after being shot at for the couple preceding months, grouse are less likely to hold for a pointing dog. Regardless the type of dog used, though, tighten up your chokes and be prepared for longer shots.

Author’s Bio

Jennifer L.S. Pearsall is an outdoor writer, photographer, and editor, who has been a professional in the hunting and shooting industries for nearly 20 years. She began her career by selling guns in a retail establishment in Northern Virginia in the early 1990s, before being recruited by the NRA to join its editorial staff. She has long been a dedicated sporting clays competitor, and  has also dabbled in IPSC and metallic blackpowder cartridge competitions. Ms. Pearsall is a practiced and dedicated hunter, with her fair share of big-game trophies decorating her home, but her deepest passions are bird dogs and upland bird and waterfowl hunting.

Since her tenure with the NRA, Ms. Pearsall’s freelance writings and editing work have appeared in dozens of outdoors print and online publications, including Gun Dog, Wildfowl, Whitetail Journal, Petersen’s Hunting, Waterfowl & Retriever, and various publications of the National Rifle Association and Safari Club International, among others. She has also written under the pen name C. Fergus Covey as a gun test and evaluation expert for Gun Tests magazine. Currently she is authoring the blog www.HuntingTheTruth.com.

Ms. Pearsall currently resides in San Antonio, Texas, with her two dogs, an aging Lab named Noah, and a squirrel-obsessed English pointer called Highway.

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